As you may recall, Harold said the front of the pendulum cabinet was too “open” with just the framing around the glass so I need to build a filler panel to tighten the focus onto the pendulum inside. Building the pendulum cabinet door is the current task.
Previously I milled the framing strips and cut those strips into the myriad of oddly shaped pieces needed to frame around the shape of the cabinet. The first step is gluing those pieces together. I start by gluing up sub-assemblies. Because of the odd angles I can not get clamps to hold the pieces together, so I use masking tape. Masking tape?!? Yes, masking tape. If adhered firmly to one piece, then stretched tightly across the joint and pressed down to the other piece masking tape can serve as a light duty clamp on good fitting joints. Tape both faces. Location of the tape and the angle of pull is important.
When the glue in the sub-assemblies is dry I glue the subs together into the full door frame using the same methods. I reinforce the joints now with upholstery staples.
While the glue in the door frame dries I work at installing the angle brackets that will hold the lower cabinet front in place. First mount the brackets inside the case, then place the front in position and mark the screw locations by reaching in through the base. Remove the front panel and drill pilot holes. Then replace the front and install the screws to hold the panel in place permanently.
When the door frame is dry I use a large sheet of brown paper to create a template of the shape the filler panels will need to be to fit into the rabbets on the back of the frame.
I use the template to lay-out the shape of each side panel. I lay down masking tape where the lines will be then draw on that – much easier to see than pencil lines on the dark walnut. Now I take the panels to the band saw and cut out the shapes.
Then I lay the side pieces into the door frame and measure for the trapezoidal shaped pieces that go between them at the bottom and the top. The angles on these have to be absolutely perfect to get good glue joints between these pieces and the side panels. I take my time and sneak up on a perfect fit. A good miter saw is essential.
When they fit properly I glue and clamp the middle pieces in place. I’ll let these set up overnight to be sure they hold well before the next step of machining, which will induce a fair bit of stress and vibration that could pop the glue joints if they're not hard enough.
Previously I milled the framing strips and cut those strips into the myriad of oddly shaped pieces needed to frame around the shape of the cabinet. The first step is gluing those pieces together. I start by gluing up sub-assemblies. Because of the odd angles I can not get clamps to hold the pieces together, so I use masking tape. Masking tape?!? Yes, masking tape. If adhered firmly to one piece, then stretched tightly across the joint and pressed down to the other piece masking tape can serve as a light duty clamp on good fitting joints. Tape both faces. Location of the tape and the angle of pull is important.
When the glue in the sub-assemblies is dry I glue the subs together into the full door frame using the same methods. I reinforce the joints now with upholstery staples.
While the glue in the door frame dries I work at installing the angle brackets that will hold the lower cabinet front in place. First mount the brackets inside the case, then place the front in position and mark the screw locations by reaching in through the base. Remove the front panel and drill pilot holes. Then replace the front and install the screws to hold the panel in place permanently.
When the door frame is dry I use a large sheet of brown paper to create a template of the shape the filler panels will need to be to fit into the rabbets on the back of the frame.
I use the template to lay-out the shape of each side panel. I lay down masking tape where the lines will be then draw on that – much easier to see than pencil lines on the dark walnut. Now I take the panels to the band saw and cut out the shapes.
Then I lay the side pieces into the door frame and measure for the trapezoidal shaped pieces that go between them at the bottom and the top. The angles on these have to be absolutely perfect to get good glue joints between these pieces and the side panels. I take my time and sneak up on a perfect fit. A good miter saw is essential.
When they fit properly I glue and clamp the middle pieces in place. I’ll let these set up overnight to be sure they hold well before the next step of machining, which will induce a fair bit of stress and vibration that could pop the glue joints if they're not hard enough.
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