In this project I’ll use some shop-made molding both as decoration on the lower part of the cabinet and as framing for the door, which will be mostly glass. So I start by jointing and planing rough stock as we always do, then ripping the boards down to finished width – almost. Because ripping a long board releases internal stresses that can cause the pieces to bow, I leave some extra width in the part I’ll use. After ripping I’ll joint it again on the concave side of the bow to straighten it out, then rip it again to straighten the convex edge as we’ll have a nice straight strip again.
Then I mount a triple-reed bit in the router table to start shaping the molding. I add a feather board to help hold the piece of wood against the fence so I can focus more on holding it flat to the table as I feed the long pieces of wood past the cutter.
I make one pass, flip the piece over and make another pass on the opposite side of the front, making three reeds on each side and a lump down the middle.
Changing to an end-cutter bit and running the strips face down on the router table allows me to clean out the lump and leave a nice flat bottomed channel where the rope trim strip will go later.
All that remains to do now is to set up the dado head and cut a shallow rabbet along one edge of the back that will allow the door frame parts to nestle into the side pieces a little and help keep the door from sliding around.
In this project I’ll use some shop-made molding both as decoration on the lower part of the cabinet and as framing for the door, which will be mostly glass. So I start by jointing and planing rough stock as we always do, then ripping the boards down to finished width – almost. Because ripping a long board releases internal stresses that can cause the pieces to bow, I leave some extra width in the part I’ll use. After ripping I’ll joint it again on the concave side of the bow to straighten it out, then rip it again to straighten the convex edge as we’ll have a nice straight strip again.
Then I mount a triple-reed bit in the router table to start shaping the molding. I add a feather board to help hold the piece of wood against the fence so I can focus more on holding it flat to the table as I feed the long pieces of wood past the cutter.
I make one pass, flip the piece over and make another pass on the opposite side of the front, making three reeds on each side and a lump down the middle.
Changing to an end-cutter bit and running the strips face down on the router table allows me to clean out the lump and leave a nice flat bottomed channel where the rope trim strip will go later.
All that remains to do now is to set up the dado head and cut a shallow rabbet along one edge of the back that will allow the door frame parts to nestle into the side pieces a little and help keep the door from sliding around.
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