I’ll start actual construction of the clock by surface planning the side blanks I glued up last time. I won’t do much with these just yet, jut get them ready.
I joint and plane the pieces I’ll need for the long back stiles (vertical parts) a pair of “wings” that will form the octagonal belly of the clock and the four rails that will run between the stiles.
Before joining them together, I cut the 2° slope on the wings so the sides will be perpendicular to the floor even though the side of the clock slant inward.
I use a taper jig to hold the pieces as they are cut – this one is a generic Chinese made unit that is not great, but does the job. It is very difficult; to set an exact angle using the built-in rule, so I use my electronic angle gauge: zero it out on the table, set it on the gauge, raise the gauge until the proper angle is achieved and tighten the screw to lock it in place. Much faster and easier.
Then I lay-out the location of the wings, apply glue and clamp them in place.
When the glue is dry I remove the clamps, scrape off any glue squeeze-out and position the stiles so I can get measurements for the rails. These need to be cut to length with a 2° degree slope toward the top on each end.
When those parts all fit properly, I set up the dado head and cut a 3/8” deep groove along the inner edges of the stiles, and all edges of the rails, except for the very top and very bottom edges. These grooves will house the three filler panels.
Normally, when I make rails and stiles for frame and panel construction like this, I cut the rails long enough to mill tenons on the ends that will fit into the panel groove. But because of the angled ends, I decided to take a more expedient route this time, and cut grooves all around, then milled loose tenons that got glued into the end grooves of the rails to form the tenons.
Then I test fit the frame and make sure all the joints draw up tight – no gaps. It looks great!
So I resaw the pieces I milled up for use as filler panels, joint and plane the halves and lay them out to check the patterns. This panel is made up of four, book-matched pieces, and they have NOT been glued together yet, just laying on the planer.
All the panel parts go into the assembly room where I lay out clamps and glue them up. It’s pretty close to quitting time, so I’ll just leave these in the clamps overnight and finish making the panels tomorrow. See you then!
I’ll start actual construction of the clock by surface planning the side blanks I glued up last time. I won’t do much with these just yet, jut get them ready.
I joint and plane the pieces I’ll need for the long back stiles (vertical parts) a pair of “wings” that will form the octagonal belly of the clock and the four rails that will run between the stiles.
Before joining them together, I cut the 2° slope on the wings so the sides will be perpendicular to the floor even though the side of the clock slant inward. 
I use a taper jig to hold the pieces as they are cut – this one is a generic Chinese made unit that is not great, but does the job. It is very difficult; to set an exact angle using the built-in rule, so I use my electronic angle gauge: zero it out on the table, set it on the gauge, raise the gauge until the proper angle is achieved and tighten the screw to lock it in place. Much faster and easier.
Then I lay-out the location of the wings, apply glue and clamp them in place.
When the glue is dry I remove the clamps, scrape off any glue squeeze-out and position the stiles so I can get measurements for the rails. These need to be cut to length with a 2° degree slope toward the top on each end.
When those parts all fit properly, I set up the dado head and cut a 3/8” deep groove along the inner edges of the stiles, and all edges of the rails, except for the very top and very bottom edges. These grooves will house the three filler panels.
Normally, when I make rails and stiles for frame and panel construction like this, I cut the rails long enough to mill tenons on the ends that will fit into the panel groove. But because of the angled ends, I decided to take a more expedient route this time, and cut grooves all around, then milled loose tenons that got glued into the end grooves of the rails to form the tenons.
Then I test fit the frame and make sure all the joints draw up tight – no gaps. It looks great!
So I resaw the pieces I milled up for use as filler panels, joint and plane the halves and lay them out to check the patterns. This panel is made up of four, book-matched pieces, and they have NOT been glued together yet, just laying on the planer.
All the panel parts go into the assembly room where I lay out clamps and glue them up. It’s pretty close to quitting time, so I’ll just leave these in the clamps overnight and finish making the panels tomorrow. See you then!
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