Yesterday, being Monday was spend doing my radio program, maintaining web sites for my clients and catching up on some bookkeeping.
Once all the bundles are drilled I remove the tape and separate the shelves.
I drop each hole in the shelf over the bit and give it a swirl (a bearing on the end of the bit prevents the bit from cutting too deeply), lift, move to the next hole and repeat.
Setting this up is a trial and error process: I start shallow and sneak up on a perfect fit. Once it's set I lock everything down and run all the shelves I've made.
I use blocks for the flat surfaces and wrap a piece of sand paper around my thumb to sand inside the holes. This takes a while.
I'll sand the five shelves I need for one rack now and move on. I'll come back and sand the rest after the first rack is done. I only have an order for one rack, the rest will go into stock. No rush on them.
A stacked dado head uses a circular blade on the outsides of the stack and one or more winged chippers in between to remove a swath of wood the proper width. The width of the cut can be fine tuned by adding shims between the cutters to achieve just the right cut width.
This too takes some time. I practice on scrap stock, cut a dado, fit a shelf into the cut and see if it is too tight or too loose, add or remove shims to adjust. Repeat. It has to be snug enough the glue will hold, but not so tight I have to force the joint together. Aligning the parts with glue in the joints will be much harder if the joint is too tight. Too loose and it may one day fall apart.
Once that's done I cut all the side pieces. To do that I use a special fixture I built. It uses a stationary bar which barely fits into the dado I just cut to space the next cut. I use a special spacer on the first cut to get the top shelf positioned, the rest are self spacing and automatically squared. I took a mess of pictures, but it's difficult to see what's happening in them, lets try a video...
When this is done I sand the side pieces. One more piece to make, then we can assemble the rack.
The teeth on any carbide saw blade (or as steel blade for that matter - because of their "set") are just a smidge wider than the saw body. To shave off just a few thousandths of an inch, lower the chop saw blade (don't turn it on) and *lightly* press the end of your part against the body of the blade - avoid all teeth. Press down hard to hold the part in place, raise the saw, start it up and bring it back down. This will remove wood equal to the difference from one side of the teeth to the blade body. Repeat as needed to get the fit you want.
Now I set up the router table with a flush trim bit and adjust the height so the bearing runs on the template (above the part). The cutter removes the wood below so it ends up exactly the same shape as the template. The template is made with a pocket that holds the part securely so it doesn't shift while trimming.
While I'm waiting I'll sand another set of parts and get them ready to assemble. When I'm done I'll have three of these racks assembled and ready for finish sanding and lacquering.
We'll get to that tomorrow.
Have a good evening and I hope to see you back here again tomorrow.