Showing posts with label crating. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crating. Show all posts

Saturday, March 1

Enroute

After discussing the situation with Nance, we decided to go ahead and have Old Dominion take this one. Friday evening was the time we had planned to make the run, but just before we were ready to go it started pouring rain. Our crates are pretty well built, but I’m afraid that subjecting it to a driving rain at highways speeds for 23 miles would prove to be a mistake. So we waited until morning.

Early Saturday morning I came over and got things ready; crate out on the dock, truck backed in, all paperwork in hand. I wasn’t sure about the rain, so to be sure I wrapped the crate in an oil cloth to help out in case we ran into some drizzle. But as the sun came up the clouds burned of and we were presented with a beautiful crystalline day.

The crate has been handed off to O.D.F.L. in a couple of hours the PRO number will be in their national computer system and you will be able to track it, and determine it’s expected arrival there, at http://www.odfl.com/ just copy and paste that PRO number I sent you into the tracking window and it will tell you everything.

That's it, we're done for the day, I'm outta here for the weekend.

On Monday we will begin Ira’s set of heavy duty tray tables.

Doug

Friday, February 29

Boxing ‘Er Up

The day started with a trip into Newport to visit Bryant & Pack Lumber to get the 1x6 – 10’ pine lumber I use for crates. Spruce lumber is a fair bit lighter than pine, but it is also almost 3 times the price, so what little we’d save on shipping costs by shaving a few pounds off a crate this size is lost to the added expense of lumber.

Upon my return I brought the new boards in and began building the base of the crate. Like so many things people build, a good foundation is important if the crate is to protect Nance’s CD End Table all the way to Texas. All our crates incorporate a pallet style base with cut-outs that allow a floor jack or fork lift to get under it and lift. The base itself uses two layers of wood, the outer layer provides most of the strength and a lip for the side panels to hook into, the inner layer offers a lip for the floor of the crate to sit on.

When we start a crate Marie often admonishes me with, “It’s JUST a crate, not a piece of furniture, don’t make yourself crazy over it.” And I try, I really do, but I find myself fussing over things anyway. Oh, well.

Once the base is completed and squared up I bring crate board in from the big shed. This stuff is ½ inch thick, triple layer corrugated cardboard that we get from International Paper in Morristown TN. It offers the same puncture resistance and vertical crush resistance as the ¼’ luan plywood we used to use but is considerably lighter than plywood, less expensive and easier to work with to boot. Plus, being cardboard it recycles easily. There is no down side. What I’m working with here are actually scraps from the last project we shipped. This crate board comes in 9 foot by 16 foot panels which can be a bit tricky to handle in confined spaces. These smaller “scraps” are much easier to work with, yet are plenty big enough to get the pieces I need out of.

For anyone who wants to try crateboard in their shipping here are a couple of tips:
1) A drywaller’s square (that big blue T-square) helps a lot in laying out good square panels.
2) Use a good utility knife with replaceable blade, and replace the blades often. Paper dulls a knife blade faster than you might believe and a dull blade make for more work and crooked cuts.
3) Cut through the board in multiple cuts. Just score the cut along the pencil line with the first cut, then use two or three more passes to complete the cut. On the final pass make cure you have a piece of scrap under the board you are cutting so you don’t cut into your bench.
4) Always orient the corrugations vertically; these are what give you the crush resistance should the truck line set something heavy on top of your crate as it’s being shipped. In a crate this size the wooden banding will easily handle the load, but in larger pieces, this factor will be important.

Once the side pieces are cut I begin constructing the blocking that goes inside to keep the End Table positioned and lining them with foam rubber. The panel waiting for the web cement to set up is the front panel with recesses that snuggle around the drawer pulls to put pressure on the drawer fronts so they don’t move around.

Building these side panels and the blocking takes a while; lots of measuring and custom fitting, but also the spray adhesive we use to hold it all together needs to set up about 10 minutes to reach maximum strength before we put the pieces together. That slows things down.

The next step is to attach the wooden banding. Again we use the spray contact cement for this. We start with the band around the top of the sides so the top band will sit on top of the vertical corner pieces, which sit on top of the base, so any downward forces are fully transmitted from the very top right to the base (and the floor) protecting the crates contents. To attach the vertical corner pieces I remove the side panels and use spring clamps to make sure we get good contact between crate board and wood the full length.

And that’s it. It took almost 7 hours to build this crate, but it’s easy work. I’ve heard from some customers who say they put the crates back together after removing their furniture and used them as a playhouse, doghouse or something similar – seemed a shame to just toss them out. Being cardboard, they won’t stand up to rain and snow for long, but you may do what you want with it. If you’re going to toss it, please knock the lumber off of it and recycle the cardboard. Most recycling programs accept corrugated cardboard now.

UNCRATING INSTRUCTIONS

To open the crate you will need only a #2 Robertson (square drive) screw driver. Using this tip in a reversible power drill or power screwdriver will make the task easier. There is no need for hammers or pry bars as these may damage the table inside.

1) Remove the 8 silver screws and the 4 connector plates from around the base of the crate. These hold the sides to the base so the whole thing can be lifted by the top or sides without separating the top part from the base.
2) Remove the 12 screws from around the perimeter of the top plate and lift the top panel off.
3) Remove the 4 screws from each corner post. Tip each side panel out and lift it up and free of the base. Be careful with the front panel, those Library Pulls like to snag in the foam. Be sure the bottom row are clear before yanking the panel loose or you may damage something.
4) Sometimes a little adhesive gets into the joints between the panels. If you’ve removed all the screws but two panels won’t separate, simple apply slow pulling pressure to both panels until the adhesive pops loose. Crowbars, hammers or dynamite are not necessary.
5) That will leave your table sitting on the crate base, ready to be lifted off and carried inside your home. All the packing will pull away with the crate panels. The table itself weighs only 52 pounds, so it will be easily carried by two healthy individuals, or one good burly one. Just watch the drawers, they’ll want to slide out if the table is tipped forward. Also, check the crate base after you've removed the table to be sure no shelf pins bounced out of the drawers during shipment.

Once your table arrives, we’d very much like to know that it arrived safely. Your comments on the condition of the crate will help us decide if the carrier (trucking company) is doing a good job as well as if our crates are effective enough. And of course we’d love to get your comments of the table itself. We thrive on compliments, but all constructive criticism has helped us refine the product and add new and better features over the years.

By logging into the web site you may leave a Product Review that will be attached to the CD End Table item and available to others who may be considering this product. If that is too much trouble, just send us an e-mail. We’re grateful for any comments you offer.
Now I’m off to run cost bids from the trucking companies. We have used Old Dominion Truck Lines exclusively for the past 7 years and they have served us well; not a single piece we’ve entrusted to them has been damaged in shipping, but their prices have been creeping upwards to the point that our customers have started clutching their chests and falling of their chairs gasping when they see the shipping cost estimate.

I was recently exchanging e-mails with Jon of Cove Hill Furniture and the issue of shipping costs came up. He recommended R&L Carriers; the service he uses. So I’ve been looking into that carrier. They do offer lower rates, all of their trucks are equipped with lift gates and they don’t charge extra to use them, or to make an appointment for delivery. In fact, their customers I’ve talked to (hey… when I applied for an account they wanted references on us, so it’s only fair that we check their references, right?) all say that the company seems to embrace the small accounts and are more user friendly than the more industrially focused freight lines. They have a pretty cool history too, you can read all about it by [clicking here] if you like.

Nance, I'll be e-mailing you with the final arrangements.

Have a great weekend!

Doug

Monday, January 28

In Transit

Friday evening I ran the Bill of Lading, a set of shipping labels, and billed the final payment to Gary’s credit card. After placing the shipping labels and FRAGILE tags on the crate I moved it out to the dock. I ran into a little trouble with this task – the doorway is not as wide as I had thought it was. This came as quite a surprise as we have not encountered this problem before. But, with a little Devine intervention the problem was overcome and I was able to load the crate onto our truck for the trip to White Pine where the Old Dominion truck dock is.

Old Dominions local dock is HUGE, with hundreds of trucks loading, unloading and being serviced all at the same time. Except for two days a year, the dock is open 24/7 so we can take our shipments to them when it is convenient to us. I have to go inside and present the paperwork to the City Desk then they send someone with a fork lift to pick the crate off our truck and take it inside the dock building. In most cases, it is loaded onto a trailer and leaves the dock that same night.

It is a tradition with us to stop off on the way home and have supper as a celebration of another commission successfully completed, and we did so once again.

Doug

Friday, January 25

Crating

Crating begins by making rubber booties for the cradles rockers to protect them from rubbing after nesting the cradles together. Then I nest them and take careful measurements of the overall size of the total package. In addition to the booties I use Styrofoam to pad the sides of the cradles where they might rub together.

The finished crate must be snug to keep the cradles from shifting about, but not so tight that things get crushed. Once I have my measurements and have added figures for packaging I stretch out the monster sheet of crate board and begin laying out the panels. To help keep everything nice and square I borrow a tool from the drywall industry; a huge T-square. As long as I working from factory cut edges things turn out nicely squared up.

After the panels are cut I begin to build the base of the crate. Like the foundation of a home or the chassis of a car, a good base is necessary even for a crate if it is to properly protect the contents and allow it to be moved about. I cut relief’s in the longs sides so a fork lift or pallet jack can be used to move the crate – the dock workers and truckers appreciate this and since it means not having to man-handle the crate around the truck it also means less chance of damage.

Once the crate base is done I lay it on a roller platform and set the cradles in place on it, insert the separator foam pieces and securely strap the cradles together with cellophane ‘flat twine’. Then I install the blocking rails under the cradle rockers that will help support the cradles evenly and prevent them from trying to rock. Additional blocking is made up of crate board scraps and Styrofoam. This blocking is added to key points inside the crate to hold the cradles in place. I suppose I could just build a box and fill it with foam peanuts or shredded paper, but with a box this size, it would take a WHOLE lot of peanuts, and those would make a big mess when the crate is opened up. Doing it this way is lots more work, but better for everyone in the long run.
The blocking is glued together then glued to the side panels as I assemble the crate. The side panels will lift up and out after a few screws are removed for easy access to the furniture inside. No crowbar required. Once the blocking is all in place I begin applying the banding around the perimeter of the crate. This too is held in place by a spray-on contact cement. Key joints are reinforced with screws for easy disassembly.

The final step is to cut the top piece, add banding around the edge to give the screws a bearing surface and reinforce them. Once the top blocking is glued in place I secure the top with screws. Then the crate is ready to weigh and move to the dock where we will put it on our truck and take it to White Pine TN, the closest O.D.F.L. truck dock. The truck line won’t send their semi-trucks up Piney Mountain Road, and if they did they’d charge an additional $65.00 fee for doing so since our dock is not large or sturdy enough to run a fork lift on. So we take it to them.

NOTES ON UNCRATING
The crate is 43” x 46” x 36” high and weighs 140 pounds.

Tools required:
  • A #2 Robertson head (square drive) screw driver. A power screw driver or reversible drill with this bit is recommended, but that’s up to you.
  • A knife or pair of scissors.
  • A wheeled platform or cart is recommended if you must move it very far.

If you must tip the crate up on its side in order to move it through a doorway look for the side marked “Alternate ‘down’ side”; setting it up on this side is least likely to cause damage to the contents. Set the crate down flat before opening it.

1) Remove the 4 wood grained couplers around the base of the crate.
2) Remove the screws around the perimeter of the top and lift off the top.
3) Remove the 3 screws along each corner post and remove the side panels.
4) Cut the strapping that holds the two cradles to each other.
5) Remove the cradles.
6) Please remember that cardboard is recyclable.

Thus ends this adventure in furniture making.

Doug

Wednesday, January 23

Crating Supplies

I spent 3½ hours this morning fetching the crating supplies I’ll need to crate up Gary’s cradles. First stop was International Paper in Morristown. The crate board I use is ½” thick triple wall corrugated cardboard. It has the same puncture resistance as ¼” luan plywood but one third the weight. Cutting down on weight saves you, my customer, money on shipping fees. While I was there I got two sheets so I'd have enough on hand to crate up Nance's CD End table, which is next on the docket. No need to make that drive any more often than necessary. The crate board comes in 9 foot by 16 foot sheets so we have to fold it up just to transport it, and cutting it to size is something of a task. This task was not quite so daunting the last time we did it because we had just moved into the new workshop and had a large open piece of floor to lay the board out on and work with it. Now that we’ve been in here a while… no more wide open spaces.

I also stopped into the lumber yard to get the pine lumber that will be used as the frame around the crate. I could simply build a cardboard box but, again, we get a better price by shipping in a wood framed crate – it’s better protected that way.

And I brought in from the big shed some Styrofoam sheeting (4’x8’ sheets) that will be used as cushioning to protect the cradles during transit.

The afternoon was spent cleaning up and clearing out as much stuff as I could to create some extra work space. Right now the truck is loaded for a run to the Convenience Center (local name for a community trash dump) and a stop at the Good Will to donate some items that are useable but no longer needed.

Tomorrow we’ll roll up our sleeves and build the crate.

Check in again then,

Dougs