And that is another day. Marie went out on a grocery run and I need to be at the house when she gets home to help haul them inside, so it’s time to clock out and head home.
See you tomorrow.
Doug
Daily production notes on projects under construction at Smoky Mountain Woodworks. Slip on a pair of safety glasses and come on in!
Then I sand the inside faces of the rails. Just the inside faces, nothing else. Finally I test fit the trails around a tray panel, checking closely to see if they fit properly.
I remove one rail at time, apply the glue and put it back in place, being very careful to get it in the right place as I’m inserting it because it won’t slide much: the joints are snug and the glue binds in them. When the last piece goes on I apply a band clamp to draw all the corners together while the glue dries.
OK, so the trays are together and clamped and will sit over night. But since I’m only making 2 tables for this set I still have lots of time to use up today, so I start in on the legs sets. The leg blanks were cut previously and planed smooth. Now I set up my Incra fence and trim them all to the right length. Then I get out my templates; these thin plywood patterns have a wooden hook at one end that fits against the foot of the leg, then holes are drilled in them to precisely lay-out where screw holes will be bored and give me the right length and shape of the upper end of the leg. Everything I need to know to make the leg sets is written right on the template. A small hammer an a few nails tapped through the lay-out holes mark each leg, then I take them to the drill press to bore and countersink the holes – read those instructions; one does NOT get countersunk! Then the top is shaped on a stationary belt sander. When they’re all done I break out the sand paper and sand them all smooth.
And finally I take them into the assembly room. First I pre-finish the areas that will be inside the pivot joints of the legs. Then I install the rub-washers and screws that will act as pivot hinges. These are special screws that won’t back out with use causing the pivot point to wobble. I will install screw hole plugs over most of the screws, but not yet. Not until I’m sure everything will fit properly. It should – as long as I follow my instructions on the templates these tables should turn out just like the 300 or so other tray tables I’ve built… but you never know. So I wait to plug the screws until the tables are all together and I’m certain it all fits properly.
Once all that was taken care of it was back to table making for me. I started by cutting the backer boards for the ribbon panels. These pieces of thin birch plywood (cabinet grade – good stuff) serve as a stable platform on which to mount the side rails. I can’t glue the side rails to the ribbon panels because the ribbon panels will need to expand and contract; glue them to something that won’t expand with them and they will split. So, the ribbon panels get a stripe of glue down the middle and glued just this much to the backer boards, then the rails will get glued to the backer boards – and each other – but NOT to the ribbon panel.
I got going, I started by setting up the bandsaw with a ¼” 10 TPI band and cutting Don’s over the sink cutting board to shape. You may recall that my final task last night was to trace around the pattern Don had sent to transfer the shape into the board blank.
I cut a hair outside of the lines so I could sand down to the line and remove the saw marks. I did this with a stationary belt sander.
Next I set up the router table with a bowl bit to cut this relief. The long, third side: the hypotenuse of the triangle, for the mathematically inclined, remains square on the under side to encourage liquids to drip down instead of running along under the board.
I form the relief by making multiple passes and setting the fence back a little on each pass until I reach the line I drew.
Finally I sand the entire board with 150, 180 & 220 grit paper then take it into the finishing room and apply a heavy coat of mineral oil, work it in with a cloth for 5 minutes making sure no dry spots develop, then wipe the excess oil off with another rag and buff the board to a soft luster.
Now; back to Ellen’s tray tables. Today I will glue up two halves of a ribbon panel. To do this I take one of the panels I arranged and taped together yesterday and snip the tape along the mid-line. The full panel is about 15” wide, our surface planer will accommodate 13” widths, so I have to make them in halves, then join the halves. But we’ll get to all that later. For today,
I apply glue to the joints between the ribbon strips using a fixture I built the lay the panel in a set of clamps. I
carefully check the alignment of the ribbons as I snug up the clamps. I have only 1/16” extra wood to remove in smoothing the panels so they have to be pretty close to start with.